Making a Vampire

To create the Vampire look in my image, I used a range of tools and skills on photoshop in order to do this.

I opened up my image in photoshop and saved the document in order to keep all my transformations backed up. I then clicked on the sponge tool, variation 'lollipop'; by changing the mode to desaturation 80%, it would remove the colour from the image. I used this tool on the skin in the image (this included the face and neck, in order to make it more realistic and professional) to remove the colour and made it grey  to look more 'undead'. However, I made sure to avoid the mouth and eyes as I would be using other techniques on them later.


Once I was satisfied with the outcome I selected the burn tool from the menu and then changed the range to shadows and made the exposure 50% (so the effect would be darker than the original image - to make the colour stand out more). I then used it to go over the eyes and lips in the image. This made the red of the lips more prominent and darker and put shadows around the eyes. It makes them stand out more by keeping the colour on the pale face.

The next task was to change the colour of the teeth; to make them whiter to improve the overall effect of the image. I did this by using the magnetic lasso tool to draw around the models teeth and then pressed control and clicked to show the options. Then I clicked layer via copy. After this was done I could click on the image and go to adjustments and then levels - I then changed the settings in order to make the teeth whiter. 

After I did this, I could then change the shape of the teeth into fangs; to make the model really look like a Vampire. In order to do this, I used the start of the same process that I used to whiten the teeth. After I layered via copy, I then clicked on edit. Next I chose transform and then warp in order to change the shape of the teeth. Then I dragged and changed the points around the tooth in order to distort it and make it look like a fang; I repeated it for the second tooth. 

I also changed the eye colour to red to make the model look more like a vampire and improve the overall image. I did this by using the magnetic lasso tool to go around the eye (one at a time) and copied them onto a separate layer using 'layer via copy'. Next I clicked on the image, went to Adjustments and found Colour Balance. I changed the hue and saturation of the colour to a dark red that improved the overall look of the model. 

I also wanted to add blood spatters onto my model so I downloaded different brushes from www.brusheezy.com onto photoshop. I downloaded one I liked, and then loaded it onto photoshop by clicking on the Brush Tool and then settings -load brushes. Once my brushes were onto photoshop I opened the brush menu (going to window then brushes) so I could see the options available to change the brushes.

I was then able to change the rotation of the blood spatters and the size, colour etc. I then added some to the image. 

Here are the images: 

Before:                                                                               After:

Heal Brush Tool

Zoe - Before                     Zoe - After










I used the heal brush tool on Photoshop in order to edit Zoe's blemishes from the image. 
First I created a new document in the programme then opened Zoe's before image into it so I could begin to edit it. Then I clicked on the healing brush tool to erase all the imperfections from her face. I then changed the settings from 'current layer' to 'all layers'. I did this as it allowed me to be delete any mistakes from the image easily; I wouldn't have to go through all the layers taking away the mistake.
Then I actually started to take away Zoe's spots from the image. 
I clicked the 'alt' button on a part of her face that was her natural skin colour; this 'copies' it. Then I preceded to click and use it on parts of her face that was flushed red or had blemishes present. Once I did this, the skin changed colour to a smooth skin tone.
I continued to do this for all of her face, making sure I changed the skin tone I was using on different parts of her face so everything would blend in. Above is the result after I had finished performing the task.

Shutter Speed Images

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1/ 800

1/ 800

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Shutter Speed

Changing shutter speed controls the length of time that light passes through the lens of a camera. The exposure time determines how much light reaches the sensor (in the camera) to create different effects for the image.

Shutter speed also changes the way moving objects appear in certain photographs. Using a very short shutter speed is often used to freeze fast-paced subjects (or objects) in the frame. This could be used for example, in sporting events or capturing running water. A longer shutter speed can be used to take images of moving objects that will blur in the photogrpah. This is done deliberatley to create this artistic effect on the image.

Due to this, short exposure times are commonly called 'fast' (since they take images of quick-paced objects), and long exposure times called 'slow' (as they are usually usded to take shots of slow objects).

Problems:

Since the objects are moving, it is harder to take a well composed image; more problrems will arise than if you were just taking an image of a stationary object.

It is important to check images after taking them incase any of these issues arise. It is far easier to retake the images on the spot rather than hvaing to do another shoot. Knowing these points is essential so you can spot any mistakes and improve photographs straight away.

Focal blur

This can occur at any time, especially when changing pose or position. You could assume the camera is still focused, this is often not the case. It is extremely important to keep images in focus or they will be ruined. 

When using manual focus it is very important to check to see if the image is properly positioned. If the photograph is out of focus, it is ruined and can't be undone. 
If using manual focus is too difficult, use automatic focus mode that will do this for you. Making sure all images are in focus is a top priority.

Underexposure:

One issue could be underexposure in the image. This is when not enough light has gotten into the lens and the image is too dark and shadowy to be of any use. This could happen when using a very short shutter speed; there was not enough time for an adequate amount of light to get throught to properly take the image. Although the speed had to be shorter to correctly capture the movement in the image, a balance must be met to ensure this problem doesn't happen.

To solve this problem you could retake the shot using a different shutter speed to allow more light to filter into the lens. Using a slower shutter speed could help this issue. It is important to try different speeds to find the correct balance between exposure and capturing the movement desired in the image.

Taking the photograph at a different time of the day or in better lighting conditions would also sort this problem out. Changing the setting of where the image is took, to a place with better lighting is helpful if you want to keep the same shutter speed.


Poor framing:

This is when things are cut off in the image or the intended subjects are too far away. If hands, heads or other body parts are missing, all contributes to a poor image. Also if the subject is too far away in the image, the correct shot distance hasn't been used.

In order to deal with this problem it is essential you check your images as soon as you have took them. This allows you to review them straight away and check if anything is wrong with them.

Making sure to choose the correct distance for the shot is important; you don't want to be too close or too far away. This could mean getting closer or further away from the subject. Zoom only works so well, it may require more planning on the photographers part to make sure the model is in frame correctly.

Taking your time to take the shots is also helpful. If your subject is moving you could time everything correctly to take the correct photographs; instead of your model moving randomly. This could save a lot of effort later; having to retake the photographs for every shot.

Using continuous shoot mode will take lots of images with one click of the camera button. This increases the likelihood of capturing the shot you wanted. If the person is moving, it makes it more difficult to get the photograph of the pose you want. By using continuous shoot mode you can take lots of images in order for you to find the right one. 
However this does make the process more time consuming as you will have to go through all your images to find the right one. Though getting the perfect photograph is surely worth the extra hassle.

Using a tripod to keep the camera still could also be effective. Missing things from the image could be human error, if the camera wasn't steady enough when taking the image. Using a tripod would solve this issue and keep the camera stationed in one place. 

Photograph Compositions

 

This particular composition shot is a line shot. When looking at it, it immediately draws the eye to wherever the line is pointing. This would be good in a magazine as it means it draws the readers attention to where they want it without putting an arrow on the page. It is more subtle and more effective. 

This is a medium shot image; we don't need to see her whole body. If was too zoomed in or not enough the line effect wouldn't work in the photograph. The banister wouldn't be visible, creating the connotation of an arrow - it wouldn't be effective.

I believe this is a well composed image as it isn't blurry and my model is practically in the middle of the image. You don't need to see her face as it isn't about what she looks like; only about the line the shot creates.

 

 

 

 

This is a frame shot. My main model is inside the door frame to make her look more important in the image. Even though the male model is in the foreground, since she is framed, your attention is immediately drawn to her. This makes her look more important in the image and that she is really what the picture is about. The other person there is to further show that the reader is only supposed to focus on her. 

This image is a long shot as you can see the models whole bodies. This shot distance is appropriate as it highlights the frame effect much better. If it was too zoomed in, the second model wouldn't be included in the image, adding to the frame effect.

Overall this is a well composed image as it is in focus and brings forth the connotations intended. 

However the lighting for the image isn't great. The main subject has shadows casted on her which doesn't make the image seem as professional as it could be. 

 

 

 

This is also an example of a framed photo shot. However this did no turn out as well for various reasons. This was shot before my improved photograph above; in the moment I identified some of the problems and aimed to change them when taking another image.

Firstly the lighting for this photograph was inadequate, this meant I got an unsightly glare from the window in the door. My subject wasn't clear in the image as the glare covered her face.

Also the frame was too small and my model couldn't be seen that much in the photograph. There was too much unfilled space (from the door), this didn't give a nice effect to look at from an image.

This photograph was a practice and meant my other images were improved.

 

 

 

 This particular photograph is a extreme long distance shot as well as being framed. It showed in the image that the subject is far away as we can see her whole body, as well as it is being framed in the doorway of the long corridor. By making my subject small in the shot, it belittles her and shows her unimportance to the audience. This image isn't meant to focus on the person in the image, it wans the audience to think of the situation the person is in.

The long shot makes the model look more vulnerable and alone, as well as unimportant and far away. This shot could be used in this way to create empathy from the reader about a certain topic.

I used the manual focus tool for all my images to make sure they looked as professional as possible. This image is in focus and zoomed correctly for the shot distance I was aiming or.

However, I didn't like that the image was taken landscape. It doesn't frame my subject well in the photograph; there is too much unwanted space at the sides of the photograph. I tried it again in portrait mode (below).

 

 

Here is the same shot but taken in portrait mode. I believe this to be overall much better and effective as it frames her properly. The photograph frame is the same as the doorframe and the whole image flows better. This is more effective and would be the image used in any publication.

 

 

 

 

 

Although this looks like practically the same image, it has different connotations. Now my subject is placed in the top third of the image. This makes her look more important in the frame; she has more of a purpose for being there.

 

For example, if this was a horror movie poster, by her being featured in he top thirds, it shows her importance in the film. If the lighting was dimmer (to keep in the theme), it would make her part look more sinister and significant in the film; she could be the villain.

This image has widely different connotations than if my subject was in the bottom third of the photograph (below).

 

 

 

 

By placing my subject into the bottom third of my image, it makes her look more inferior and weak in the image. She is secondary to any other people featured; no longer as important. This brings forth different connotations.

 

For example in the horror movie poster, placing her at the bottom would make her look like the victim. She is one of the characters who would be killed off; not playing a big part anymore.

 

 

 

 

This image also represents the rule of thirds. With my models eye-line in the top third it makes her look more important in the photograph. She is the focus and what you have to pay attention to.

It is a well composed image that is in focus and zoomed in to a correct size. The shadows at the bottom of the image help the viewer to only focus on her eyes and nothing else. That is the only important part of the image.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tilting the camera can also change the impression an image can make. I have taken this particular photograph from above, looking down on my subjects. This is a tilted down photograph. 

By doing this it makes the subjects look less important and smaller in the image. Placing my female model on the left means that the viewer would see her first, as we read from left to right. This makes her more significant than the other model  in the photograph.

However, she is also in the bottom third of the image which could also make her seem weak and menial.

The other model is on the right which deflates his importance, but he is also positioned in the middle third of the frame. This can make him look more relatable to the audience.

 

By placing the models in this way, they are different but in some ways the same. They are in different sections of the photograph and stand out in different ways, but in terms of their emphasis in the image, they are practically the same. 

This image is in focus and the lighting is sufficient enough to see both models appropriately.

 

 

 

 

 

This image is similar as I have placed the models specifically to create certain connotations.

 

My female model is on the left but now in the top third of the photograph. This makes her the most important element in the image. She is the first thing you will see and is high in the photograph, signifying superiority and influence.

 

The other model I have included in the image is on the right and at the very bottom. This shows how weak he is supposed to look in the photograph, very unimportant and not the main focus of the image.

 

 

 

I chose to take this particular image tilted up, so I was looking up at her from an angle. I wanted to take the photograph from below to create a certain impression from the audience when they look at it.

However, this shot is very unfocused and is not fit for use. I re-took the image to a higher standard (below).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

When I realised that the first few shots of this pose were blurry and not appropriate, I took them again properly. This was the result.

 

By taking the image from below with the light coming from above and behind her, the impression it creates is very innocent and pure. There are no dark shadows around her and her expression is very neutral, even though her head is mostly turned away from the camera. Looking at her from below makes her drastically more significant and meaningful in the image. This shot is very influential and brings forth the connotations and impressions that it is meant to perfectly.

Induction Project - Evaulation

Photography

When taking the photographs I used manual focus to make sure they came out properly. To be able to use a magazine cover they needed to be focused properly otherwise they couldn’t be used. This allowed me to get the best possible quality for my images.

However, the first few photos I took were out of focus, as I didn’t set up the camera correctly. Although I realized this quickly and changed it so the rest of the shoot would be successful.

I have learnt that when using the focus rings it is important to check them in between different poses of the model. Things can change when the subject moves. By not focusing in all the way it created the best quality image for my magazine cover.

Here are a few examples of my earlier images; my later ones were more in focus and appropriate for my magazine cover.

Here are some of the photographs that turned out well. I used the first image for my final magazine cover.

 

When taking the photographs I made sure to stand in the T-stance. This made it easier to take the shot. I was balanced whilst focusing on the model and taking the picture how I wanted it. By trial and error I also learned that the best way to effectively take a medium-long shot photograph is to take the image in portrait mode. This is turn makes it easier when editing the photo as I won’t have to resize or crop the image to fit the A4 size of my magazine cover. If I took the photograph in landscape mode I would have to resize it lots in order to get it to work for my cover. Even then it wouldn’t look as professional for the magazine cover.

When organising background and lighting for my photographs, I chose to do the shoot against a brick wall with side lighting. I did this for ease and to help the model. By having the lighting at the side it wouldn’t blind the model so she would be squinting her eyes in the image. Also it wouldn’t wash out her face and have a reflection on the camera. I didn’t want sunspots on the photograph, which could have happened if I used front lighting. I didn’t want to use back lighting, as it would have thrown the models face into shadows, which wasn’t the effect I was going for.

Since I used a brick wall as my background no problems rose in the shoot. My first idea was to take the images in the park opposite the college. The trees could have provided a good background. However it could have brought it lots of problems such as people walking the background and how the model was going to stand around the foliage. Taking all this into consideration, I changed my idea to take the photographs in front of the wall.

At first I let the subject choose whatever pose she wanted to start the shoot off. Then throughout I instructed my subject to try new things and told her poses I wanted he to try out for the photographs. This gave me a wide range of images to choose from when picking my final picture for my magazine cover. Since I knew my subject, people skills weren’t that much of an issue. However I believe I need to be more professional during these shoots as we wasted a lot of time laughing and giggling when we could have been finished. In order to work efficiently I will have to work more professionally even in front of friends, in this kind of situation.

Photoshop

When editing my image for the magazine cover, I used a number of tools. Further into my editing I started to get used to working in Photoshop so it became easier to create my cover. First I put a black and white filter effect on my image. This is to make the image more mysterious and fit with the theme of a rock magazine. This also made the image clearer to see. By taking away the colours you focus more on the model than the background. I then used the history tool and used it to uncover the green of the coat. This would make it stand out more against the grayscale background. I found this easy to use but I had to be extremely careful. Several times I had to change the size of the brush used so it would only show the coat and not anything else. I only wanted the green showing through and not the red brick background.

I added then masthead in a different shade of green so they would all stand out against the black and white background. The page splash was also the same colour as the masthead so they would both stand out and catch the reader’s eye. I then used white for the other cover-lines to keep the same colour scheme for the front cover.

For my font, I kept it the same style for the whole cover. This gives it consistency and makes it look more professional. I didn’t need to download any fonts from the internet; I found what I wanted on Photoshop. I chose ‘Century Gothic’ as it is easy to read and stands out on the cover. I put the masthead in a different shade of green to keep in the colour scheme, and to make all the individual parts stand out more on the cover. I then added a drop-shadow effect so the writing would ‘glow’ on the page. This would make it stand out on the cover so readers will know what magazine it is. I chose to make the cover-lines in white so they would stand out on their own and not be overpowered by the green features of the front cover.

To improve my front cover I believe I need to add more cover-lines to make it more interesting. There isn’t much information about the magazine which could persuade readers into buying it. I was trying to go for a more laid-back look but it could do with a little bit more to make it brilliant. 

However overall I think my front cover is very aesthetically pleasing. All the important features stand out and there are a few stories that would drag the right audience in, used for the cover-lines.

Here is an image of my final design for my front cover:

Skills Audit

AS Media Production: Technical Skills Audit Print Production

 

Photographic Skills

Which of the following photographic features/equipment have you used on a camera before:

Feature	Yes	No	Comments if yes – where have you completed this skills and to what level
Manual Focus features Creative writing classes		X
Shutter Speed		X
Aperture control		X
A tripod		X
External flash		X
Self timer facility	X
Light meter		X
Composition grids		X

Photoshop Skills

Which of the following features of Photoshop have you used before:

Feature	Yes	No	Comments if yes – where have you completed this skills and to what level
Text control		X
Filters		X
Brushes		X
Layers		X
Opacity control		X
Shape creation		X
Brightness and contrast control		X
Dodge/Burn		X
Clone stamp tool		X
Colour curves adjustment		X
Magnetic lasso, polygon lasso tool		X
Cropping tool	X
Retouch tool

In Design Skills

Which of the following features of In Design have you used before:

Feature	Yes	No	Comments if yes – where have you completed this skills and to what level
Margin and column guide creation		X
Inserting text in ID		X
Inserting images in ID		X
Resizing images in ID		X
Text manipulation – resizing, rotation	X
Text manipulation – controlling kerning and leading	X		3 .
Text flow creation		X
Text effects – drop shadow		X
Drop cap insert	X
Using transparent imagery in ID		X
Shape creation In design		X
Text wrapping	X
Exporting to PDF from In-design		X